Baaityo & the Forgotten Foods of Nomadic Gadia Lohar
Some people leave an unusual impression on you. My meeting with Soni was one such instance. I can never forget her warm smile and her fragmented recollections of childhood and the homeland she left 45 years ago.
Soni ji & her husband migrated from Barmer to a small village near Jaipur right after their marriage. They come from the Gadia Lohar community, a traditional nomadic group in Rajasthan known for their expertise in blacksmithing & metalwork.
The name "Gadia Lohar" comes from "Gadia," meaning cart, and "Lohar," meaning blacksmith. They used to live in wheeled carts, which served as both their homes and workshops.
Story of the Gadia Lohars
The Gadia Lohars trace their lineage back to the Rajput warriors of Mewar, a region in present-day Rajasthan. They were blacksmiths and weapon makers for the armies. The community's nomadic lifestyle began after the fall of Chittorgarh in the 16th century. When the Mughal emperor Akbar captured the fort of Chittorgarh in 1568, Maharana Pratap of Mewar, who fought against the Mughals, lost his kingdom. Loyal to their Rajput king, the Gadia Lohars chose to leave their settled lives and adopt a nomadic existence, vowing to return to Chittorgarh only after its recapture.
Today, Gadia Lohars travel throughout Rajasthan and neighbouring states, carrying portable forges and tools. They specialise in crafting and repairing iron tools, agricultural implements, and household utensils, sustaining themselves through these services. While some have settled in urban areas, forming small communities and continuing their blacksmithing in permanent settings, many still lead nomadic or semi-settled lives.
However, their traditional occupations face challenges from mechanised agriculture and mass-produced tools, posing economic difficulties for the community. Despite encouragement from the Indian government to settle post-independence, the Gadia Lohars strive to preserve their cultural heritage amidst these changes.
Their Gadi was their Home
The Gadi symbolizes the nomadic heritage and resilience of the Gadia Lohar community, tracing back to their origins as blacksmiths for the Rajput warriors of Mewar. For generations, the Gadi has served as their mobile home, equipped with essentials for daily living, including a sleeping area and storage for tools and belongings. Its adaptability allowed them to set up homes wherever they travelled.
While some Gadia Lohars have settled in urban areas, many still retain their carts as a link to their heritage. Even in settled communities, the gadi is preserved as a symbol of their roots and identity. It remains an integral part of their homes, passed down through generations, often personalised with engravings, embellishments, and decorations, and used as a storage space.
From Memory to Plate
With faint memories, she decided to recreate her childhood favourite dishes - Baatiyo and Palewadi, after 45 years. Her recollections were hazy, but with her husband, they pieced together what they could remember. They reminisce about their childhood and homeland, combining their memories to revive these beloved dishes. The process was emotional and nostalgic, allowing them to share a cherished part of their past with us.
Recipe for Baatiyo
Ingredients:
2 cups whole wheat flour (atta)
1 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons ghee
1 teaspoon saunf (fennel seeds), crushed
Water, as needed for kneading
Coal for traditional roasting (optional)
Instructions:
Prepare the Dough:
In a large mixing bowl, combine the whole wheat flour, salt, crushed saunf, and ghee.
Gradually add water, a little at a time, and knead into a firm and tight dough. The dough should be stiff enough to hold its shape when rolled out.
Cover the dough with a damp cloth and let it rest for about 15 minutes.
After resting, divide the dough into lemon-sized balls. Roll each ball between your palms to make smooth balls.
Dust a dough ball with flour and flatten it slightly with your hands to form a disc of about ½ inch. The roti should be thicker than usual chapatis.
2. Cooking on Tawa:
Heat a tawa or a flat pan over medium heat.
Place the rolled roti gently on the hot tawa. Cook for about 1-2 minutes on one side.
Once the roti starts cooking from below, make small holes all over the roti. This allows for even cooking and helps in achieving a crispy texture.
Optionally, if you have jagra (coal) or coal dust, you can traditionally roast the roti on a bed of hot coals or under warm coal dust for about 20 minutes. Alternatively, continue cooking on the tawa if using a gas stove.
Final Touch:
Once the roti is fully cooked and has a golden-brown colour on both sides, remove it from the tawa or coal bed.
Immediately douse the hot roti generously with ghee. The ghee adds flavour when added warm.
Traditionally, it is served warm paired with gudiya shakkar (powdered jaggery) or enjoyed as breakfast bread the next day with tea or milk.
Tips:
Ensure the dough is kneaded well to achieve a tight consistency, as this helps in rolling out thick rotis and making them sturdy enough for roasting.
If using coal or coal dust for roasting, handle it with caution to avoid burns or fire hazards.
