Beyond Tomatoes! 5 Indian Fruits for Traditional Cooking
Tomatoes arrived in India from South America with the Portuguese traders. They were not well received and were known as ‘wilayati baingan’, a foreign eggplant. The resistance also came from the fact that tomatoes belong to the nightshade family, which includes many poisonous plants. But slowly, tomatoes made their way to Indian kitchens, adding depth of flavour, colour, and tanginess to a wide array of traditional dishes. Their journey from suspicion to widespread acceptance reflects the dynamic nature of food culture and the willingness of people to embrace new ingredients over time.
So, what did Indians use for sourness in traditional recipes before the arrival of Tomatoes?
Kokum | Coastal Region
Kokum is at risk of becoming rare and extinct by the year 2025, as per a 2017 joint study by Tokyo University, JNU, and the GB Pant National Institute of Himalayan Environment and Sustainable Development. It is a tropical fruit that is found in the coastal states of Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka & Kerala is Kokum. It is small, round, and dark purple when ripe, resembling a small plum. Kokum has a tough outer skin and contains several seeds surrounded by a tart, fleshy pulp. It tastes similar to tamarind with subtle sweet undertones and is less acidic. Kokum is a key ingredient in Konkani and Malvani cuisine, where it is used in traditional recipes like sol kadhi (a refreshing coconut milk drink) and fish curries. Kokum fruit, petals and rind are dried to extend its shelf life and used in food by rehydrating, just like dried tamarind.
Kachri | Rajasthan
Kachri is a wild cucumber that grows abundantly in the dry and arid regions of Rajasthan. It is known for its tangy and slightly bitter flavour, which adds a unique flavour dimension to dishes. Kachri fruits are dried, powdered and then added to dishes during cooking. Alternatively, sliced kachri is dried to increase shelf life and then soaked in water to rehydrate and extract its sourness. Fresh Kachri fruit is also used in vegetable & meat preparations, chutneys and pickles. It is cooling in nature and provide relief from heat-related ailments during the hot summer months in Rajasthan.
Amboliya | Gujarat
Urvi, a Gujarati from Panchmahal region who moved to Berlin 13 years ago, swears by Amboliya. It is made with Totapuri or Rajapuri Mangoes grown in central Gujarat, known for their distinct tangy taste.
The mangoes are peeled, sliced and sun dried with a generous sprinkling of salt. It is used as a souring agent in various Gujarati dishes, particularly in dal, kadhi, and sambharo. It adds a tangy and refreshing flavour to these dishes, balancing out the sweetness of Gujarati recipes and enhancing the overall taste profile. Apart from its culinary usage, Amboliya is also used as a great digestive and come in different flavours like Teekha Amboliya, Jeera Amboliya, etc.
Bilimbi | Kerala & Karnataka
Bilimbi grows wild in backyards of most homes in Kerala. I first saw this tree laden with fruits on a hot summer day at an art museum in Kochi. Coincidentally, another art lover with me was a Sri Lankan who introduced me to this tropical fruit and taught me to identify the right ones that are sour with a subtle hint of sweetness. Its outer flesh is crisp to bite in and juicy in the centre, almost like a star fruit with notes of lemon. In Malayalam, it is called ‘irumban puli’ and is used in many fish preparations. It is widely used as a souring agent in traditional recipes cooked in the South East Asian region including Indonesia, Thailand and Philippines.
Anaardana | Punjab, Haryana & Uttar Pradesh
Anaardana is made from the dried seeds of the pomegranate fruit. The seeds are dried under the sun and then stored for later use. The dried seeds have a tangy and slightly sweet flavor, making them a versatile ingredient in cooking. Some people also make a powder of the dried seeds which adds a deep red colour in addition to the sourness. In Punjabi cuisine, anaardana is used in dishes such as chole (chickpea curry), rajma (kidney bean curry), paneer tikka, and various vegetable preparations. And in Uttar Pradesh and Haryana, anaardana is used in dum aloo (potato curry), bharwan baingan (stuffed eggplant), and kebabs.
