Luni ni Bhaji: Rediscovering the Forgotten Superfood of India
Urvi Parikh (@jaman.berlin) shares the story of reviving her family’s forgotten recipe of Luni ni bhaji na Muthiya.
Imagine discovering a plant sprouting from wall cracks. It resembles a succulent and grows freely in gardens, fields, and urban spaces. But it’s often dismissed as an unwanted guest. Would you eat it? Most people would probably say no. Yet, amidst the current superfood craze, this humble weed has thrived unnoticed for thousands of years. It remains a hidden gem, seldom seen in modern Indian kitchens despite its rich history.
As a succulent and technically a weed, purslane fascinates me because it holds a name and place in every Indian language and regional cuisine. But still it is vanishing from contemporary Indian cooking.
Writing about luni ni bhaji (લૂણીની ભાજી), as we call it in Gujarati, is my way of paying homage to something I have always enjoyed, never talked about, but recently rediscovered.
Background Context on Purslane
Originating in India, purslane is a resilient succulent that thrives even in harsh conditions, storing water in its leaves. It is often called a miracle weed, and is one of the earliest foods known to humans. Take a closer look on your next summer stroll, and you might spot it sneaking through the cracks of sidewalks, defying urban heat and pollution.
This unassuming plant has a rich history of culinary and medicinal uses. The ancient Egyptians knew of its healing properties, and the Greeks and Romans savoured it. In India, both Ayurvedic and Unani traditions have long recognised its value.
Mahatma Gandhi was a fan, often including purslane in his meals. He wrote about its abundant, nourishing properties in Harijan, marvelling at the hidden leaves growing wild among India's grasses.
Recognised as a ‘Global Panacea’ by the World Health Organization and dubbed ‘India's gift to the world’ by wild foods expert Euell Gibbons, purslane is packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants (hello all buzzy micronutrients). Yet, despite all its benefits, purslane remains underrated, dismissed as a 'food of the poor.'
This makes me wonder about the way we tend to overlook what grows naturally around us in favour of more exotic produce like kale and avocados.
Maybe it’s time to spotlight this humble green.
In Indian cuisine
In India, particularly in Gujarati and Marathi kitchens, purslane has been a staple in simple, flavourful dishes. Known for its tart, lemony flavour and succulent texture, it adds a refreshing zing to any meal. Its thick, fleshy leaves are similar to spinach but have a distinctive tanginess and slight crunch when raw.
I don’t remember the first time I tasted it. It was one of those seasonal vegetables that regularly appeared in the summer months. We ate it, but rarely pondered or talked about it. It often paled on the plate because mangoes took up all the space in our hearts and conversations during summer. This is typical of purslane's nature, and I can't help but draw parallels between its humble presence in our lives and its unassuming existence.
When this bhaji was in season, my mother would prepare a unique version of muthiyas—soft, crumbly steamed dumplings featuring this wild green. On hot summer evenings, luni ni bhaji na muthiya with dablo athanu (a whole mango pickle) was dinner, and the leftovers became breakfast the next morning. It was a taste we cherished, a part of our summer routine that I eagerly anticipated each year.
However, after moving away from India 13 years ago, my encounters with these wild, seasonal foods became infrequent, limited to my short visits back home. On my last trip in early June, I nostalgically mentioned luni ni bhaji to my mother. She reminded me that it wasn’t yet monsoon season in Mumbai and suggested I might still find some at the local market. Intrigued, I set off to find this hidden gem.
After some searching, I discovered a vendor in the Chaar Bangla market with two small baskets of desi veggies, sitting in a corner amidst sellers of rosemary, pak choy, red peppers, and mushrooms. And there it was, a basket full of these twiggy greens, the kind my mom always brought home—tender pink stems, tiny leaves sprouting. I was reminded of my mom's words: they should have more leaves, and the stems should not be so visible.
Engaging the vendor in conversation, I learned that few people now recognise or value these wild, indigenous greens. However, he still chooses to sell our desi hyperlocal produce. He reminded me to thank vendors like him who act as guardians of wild produce, and still resist the pull of mass-produced, farmed goods.
Conclusion
Purslane, with its many health benefits and rich cultural roots, deserves a spot on our plates. By bringing traditional ingredients like purslane back into our meals, we can savour not just the diverse flavours of our cuisines but also reconnect with our indigenous past.
As we face the reality of climate change, it makes me think: does this unassuming green hold more promise than we realise? In our rapidly warming and drying world, purslane’s knack for thriving in unexpected places and its sustainable, hardy nature might just be a clue to solving some of our food challenges. It’s amazing how a little plant growing in sidewalk cracks could be a part of our future—as it was of our past. It’s time we give it the appreciation it deserves.
Recipe for Luni ni bhaji na Muthiya | લૂણીની ભાજીનાં મુઠિયા
Ingredients
For Muthiyas:
4 cups washed and chopped tender purslane greens (ensure they are tender for quicker cooking)
2 cups flour mix (2/3 handvo flour, 1/3 coarsely ground whole wheat flour)
2 tbsp crushed green chilies and ginger mix (30% ginger, 70% green chilies, coarsely crushed)
2-3 tbsp soft, cooked rice for binding
3/4 tbsp sugar or jaggery powder
1.5 tsp haldi (turmeric)
2 tbsp dhania-jeera (coriander-cumin) powder
1.5 tbsp Kashmiri red chili powder
2-3 tbsp neutral oil (for mohan)
1.5 tsp hing (asafoetida)
Salt to taste
For Vaghaar/ Tadka (Tempering):
2-3 tbsp neutral oil
Rai (mustard seeds)
Safed til (white sesame seeds)
Pinch of hing
Method
Roughly chop the greens, removing any hard stems, and keep only the tender ones.
Thoroughly wash the greens three times in a bucket of water until clear. This step is crucial as purslane grows close to the ground and can be sandy.
Prepare your steamer by adding water and bringing it to a boil.
In a large bowl or thaal, mix all the dry ingredients: flour, sugar, spices, salt, and the crushed ginger chili mix.
Add the oil for mohan, allowing the flour to soak it up and bind everything. Add the cooked rice.
Mix in the chopped purslane greens. Unlike typical muthiya recipes, use a 1:2 ratio of purslane greens to flour.
Combine everything into a soft, sticky dough. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed.
Shape the dough into long cylinders and place them in the steamer. Steam for at least 15 minutes. They’re ready if a knife or toothpick comes out clean.
Let them cool, then slice into rounds.
Heat oil in a wok, add the tempering spices, and once they splutter, toss in the muthiyas. Cook for 5-10 minutes.
Serve them warm or at room temperature with spicy-sour pickle or green chutney.
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Urvi Parikh is a Berlin-based brand and cultural strategist passionate about exploring the foodways, culture, and heritage of Western India. She runs a food project called Jaman, where she delves into the rich culinary traditions of her homeland, bridging the gap between traditional practices and contemporary trends.
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References
http://flavorsofthesun.blogspot.com/2008/01/purslane-weed-culinary-star-and-cure_27.html
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3934766/
https://www.thepharmajournal.com/archives/2020/vol9issue7/PartG/9-6-65-246.pdf
https://www.goya.in/blog/purslane-a-wonder-herb-that-is-indias-gift-to-the-rest-of-the-world
https://vaagdhara.org/name-luni-saag-purslane-portulaca-luniya-noniya-gonu-not-forget-richness/
https://extension.unr.edu/publication.aspx?PubID=4011
https://medium.com/age-of-awareness/pull-up-your-plants-purslane-bf8db5262beb
